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Beach as 1st Responder

and beaches are "first responders" to storm waves.
In Coastal Basics we showed how the beach adjusts to wave energy -

 Comparison of summer vs. winter equilibrium beach profiles. Offshore sand moves landward forming wider beaches during summer. This pattern reverses in the winter. Under equilibrium conditions, sand seaward of the closure depth is not involved in seasonal sand movement.
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These seasonal equilibrium profiles are created as the sand dissipates wave energy.
Without sand on the beach, wave energy cuts the platform and erodes the sea cliffs.

Torrey Pines State Reserve Between Del Mar and La Jolla, California. Zoom		Torrey Pines State Reserve Between Del Mar and La Jolla, California. Zoom
La Jolla Shores - La Jolla, California. Zoom Summer Sand beaches are built by low waves moving sand onshore and by currents bringing sand from upcoast.		La Jolla Shores - La Jolla, California. Zoom Winter High waves from winter storms move sand offshore and expose cobbles on the platform.
Seasonal differences in beaches located within the Oceanside littoral cell.    Photographer - Pat Masters. Images used with permission.

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Last modifed Thursday October 28, 2005