Waves



A. Terms that should mean something to you
Related words are grouped together
Parts of a wave [ 238-239 ]
Wave height
Wavelength
Still water level
Trough
Crest


Motion of a wave [ 239 ]
Velocity
Frequency
Period
Wave front [ 298, same as wave crests ]
Ray [ 298, same as direction of motion ]
Motion of particles within a wave
Orbital waves [ 238-239 ]
Progressive waves
Standing wave [ lecture ]

Shallow water waves [ 241-243 ]
Deep water waves
Wave-cut platforms[ 297, 311 ]
Erosion

Classification of waves
Disturbance [ 240 ]
Restoring force [ 240 ]
Capillary waves [ 240 ]
Wind waves [ 243-354 ]
Tides [ 267-285 ]
Tsunami [ 263-267 ]
Seiche [ 263 ]

Development of wind waves [ 244-248 ]
Wind strength
Wind duration
Fetch


Wave behavior
Dispersion [ 243-244 ]
Wave interference [ 248-251 ]
Rogue waves [ 248-251 ]
Wave reflection [ 254 ]
Wave refraction [ 253 ]
Wave diffraction [ 253-254 ]

Tides [ 267-285 ]
Extreme tides [ 276-277 ]
Gravitational force [ 248-251 ]
Centrifugal force [ 267-269 ]
Tidal cycles
     per day, [ 270-273]
     month, year [ 273-275 ]
Spring tide [ 275 ]
Neap tide [ 275 ]
New moon [ 275 ]
Full moon [ 275 ]
Apehlion[ 275 ]
Perihelion [ 275 ]

B. Questions you should be able to answer
1. What are the parts of a wave? 2. What common characteristics are shared by all ocean waves - wind waves, tides, tsunami and seiches?
3. Are these ocean waves "mechanical" or "electromagnetic" waves? 4. What are the disturbing forces that initate waves? 5. What are the restoring forces that damp out waves? 6. What are the energy sources behind the disturbing forces? 7. Do ocean waves trasmit energy and/or matter across the Earth's surface? 8. What is it important to distinguish "deep" and "shallow" water waves? 9.


C. On the web - General references
Savage Seas
TBA
PBS Online, WNET Thirteen - New York


D. On the web - Current topics
1. Scientists Warn of Massive Wave
    August 29, 2001 - CNN
2. Albright brings news of more aid to wave-hit Papua New Guinea
3. Mid-ocean Monster Waves Draw Surfers
4. Paleozoic Calendars


E. Notes and diagrams
1.    Definition of a wave
2.    Parts of a wave
            Wavelength
            Wave height
3.    Disturbing and restoring forces
4.    Motion of waves and energy
            Velocity
            Frequency
            Wave period
5.    Mechanical vs. electromagnetic waves
            Mechanical
            Electromagnetic
6.    Mediums
7.    Types of wave motion
8.    Shallow vs. deep water waves
9.    Classification of waves
10.  Development of waves
11.  Wave behavior
            Wave Interference
12.  Tides
            Scripps Institution of Oceanography Pier, Tide Predictions
            Gravitational force
            How does gravity work?
            The configuration of the sun, earth, and moon
13.   Tsunami
            Wave Interference
            Surfing Tsunami
     The origins of open-ocean surfing, including the Cortes Bank off San Diego.
14.   Wind waves
            Swell Height Prediction, CDIP


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